Explorer's Notes

We belong to a tradition that has always extolled the virtue of gratitude. In our liturgy, the very first prayer we are supposed to utter in the morning when we get up, when we open our eyes, is to say thank you. So ,thank you  all, for allowing me to accompany you on this adventure to this amazing, fascinating, enormous, multi-faceted and inexplicably curious land.

I am often asked to describe the lands to which I travel in one word. It’s not easy to do because countries and peoples are so different, so interesting. For me - in no particular order - Nepal is innocent; India is wild; the USA is colourful, Africa is feral; Canada is placid; Japan is harmonious; Thailand is happy; Vietnam is affectionate. Which single word would I use to describe China? Well, you’ll have to read to the end of these words to find that out.

Many countries that I visit undergo change at a rapid pace, sometimes for the bet-ter and sometimes for the worse. For example, I’ve visited India 24 times and I’m never sure what I’ll find when I return there.

Unlike India, I’m pretty sure what type of China I will find. China is first and foremost a world power, most probably the world power. I have found that China exudes power. Take a look at the architecture around Tiananmen Square and you’ll see what I mean. See the Bell and drum towers in Xi’an, and you’ll see what I mean. Gasp at the skyscrapers of Shanghai and you’ll see what I mean.

But China remains mysterious to me. There is still something here that harks back not only to the cultural revolution, but even to the days when China lived in “splendid isolation.” Although that policy eventually brought China to the verge of mass starvation, and almost totally crippled its economy - the Chinese still seem to think that they can manage quite fine by themselves, thank you.

Nowadays, that’s probably true. They own much - if not most - of the West’s foreign debt. They have copied much - if not all - of its technology (not always legally). They have studied its methods and its sciences and have pretty much caught up with the rest of the world from which it was twice kept isolated.

I am fascinated by China’s people. Outgoing. Friendly (though they very seldom speak anything other than Chinese). Gregarious. Happy. Often I find that I, the tourist, have become the item of their interest. Locals sometimes gather around to hear what I am telling my guests, even though they may not understand a word (specially if I’m speaking Hebrew).

China is a huge country. As a matter of fact, 5 hours of my flight here was spent flying over China. And it’s as diverse as it is vast: scenically, culturally, architecturally, historically, ethnically. The east is very different to the west. The north is very different to the south. And while religion - officially - pays no role in Chinese society, Buddhism has had a lasting influence on China, as have the teachings of Confucius and Lao Tse. Islam is present here, and a few Jews have passed this way too.

Judaism is not an officially recognized religion in China. In order to gain recognition as a religion in China there needs to be at least 5,000 Chinese adherents, which is not yet the case, even though there is a tiny number of people, mainly in Kaifeng, who are seeking out their erstwhile Jewish roots.

China is old, too. When our forefather Abraham was traipsing across the plains of Mesopotamia on his way to the Land that God had promised to show him, China already had a flourishing silk trade, paper money, and flush toilets! Of course they had countless emperors and civil wars, clans and tribal strife, and ethnic jealousies galore too.

So, to get back to where I started this monologue, if I need to use but one word I would use to describe it, I would call China...enchanting.

Glad to be here with you. Please enjoy yourselves.

Menahem

Glad to have you with us (again)! After the last two intensely “cultural” tours of India & Nepal and China, this time we’re embarking on a tri-country journey that is mainly the pursuit of nature, man-made wonders and bliss. I’m just as much a novice here as you are and I thank  you all for allowing me to be your tour manager one more time as we all gain a glimpseful of knowledge about these three countries: Costa Rica, Panama & Aruba.

What’s specially interesting for me is the fact that all three countries have Jewish communities—some larger some smaller, and that somehow, our tribe has managed to establish a beachhead even in this part of the world.

In Costa Rica, I am told, all trails seem to lead to  waterfalls, misty crater lakes or jungle-fringed pristine beaches.

And then there are the people. Costa Ricans, or Ticos as they prefer to call themselves, are very proud of their little patch of Paradise. They are known as welcoming people, inviting guests to enjoy the easy-going rhythms of Pura Vida (the pure life). Costa Rica has the highest quality of life in Central America, so I guess that all those perfect waves, idyllic sunsets and fabulous jungle lodges do indeed seem like the pure life! Costa Rica is probably Israel’s best friend among all the states in the world. It’s embassy is in Jerusalem. Hmm…

Sephardi Jews started arriving here as Conversos in the 16th and 17th centuries, and later as merchants in the 19th century. The present Jewish community dates back from

just before World War II when Jews from two villages in Poland made up half the Jewish immigration from Europe at the time.

Panama, from all I’ve read, can be either chilling or thrilling - depending on what you want. In many places throughout the world, wilderness and native cultures are disappearing under the endless crush of YouTube, McBurgers and Western commerciality. Panama, it seems, against all odds, continues with its essence intact. The capital city of this land of endless summer, Panama City, is often compared to Miami with its dazzling blue coastline and shimmering skyscrapers. Many people joke that you’ll probably hear more English spoken in Panama City than in Miami!

Panama City is described as culturally diverse and driven, rough-edged yet sophisticated. It’s constantly growing, adding a subway and completing the massive canal expansion. Like its northern neighbour, the first Jews to settle here were also Conversos from Spain and Portugal. Today the majority of Panama’s Jews are of Syrian extract.

Aruba, located a mere 15 kilometres from the coast of  Venezuela, is one of four countries that make up the “Kingdom of the Netherlands.” It has a constant temperature of about 27ºC, annual rainfall of not more than 20 inches, and it’s outside the Caribbean hurricane belt.

Did someone say Paradise?

Menahem

Let me begin by telling you that South America never interested me - except for one issue. Those who know me, know that I have an eastern soul. I love the East, the calmness and placidity, the gentle people. Eastern religions speak to me; the pursuit of a personal truth within. So any opportunity that arises for me to travel anywhere East is, was and will always be welcomed with open arms.

South America never interested me - except for one issue. It always conjured up for me thoughts of conquistadors pillaging the continent and slaughtering its aboriginal inhabitants in the name of the Catholic Church and robbing its peoples in the pursuit of their gold. Of course, the flip side of that was, I once read, that there were Jewish pirates in the Caribbean who made it their business to sink Spanish galleons as revenge for the inquisition. I don’t know if that’s factual, but I liked it anyway.

South America never interested me - except for one issue. Then one day, I received a call from clients in New York who were seeking a place to spend Thanksgiving week “not too far” from home. After consulting fellow professionals and a map, Peru seemed the most suitable. And this was also an opportunity for me to explore that one issue in South America which was of interest to me: How was it that the Inca civilization came and went within 500 years and left no documentation behind?

My first trip to Peru blew me away. Inca culture is still alive, so long after its death. Being master builders, they left behind magnificent ruins, despite the Spaniards’ efforts to destroy everything and not leave even one brick upon another.

Between Spanish swords and Span-ish diseases, the Incas were indeed wiped out, but despite the fact that they didn’t record anything, there’s so much of their civilization to experience and artefacts to see, that archaeologists have been able to piece together a very comprehensive understanding of that lost civilization.

And the Andes! Oh those mountains; those spectacular, astounding, amazing, lofty, awesome, majestic mountains! And that’s just the Lower Andes!

I also discovered a passion in South America; in its languages, its colours, its dress and its dance. Like Africa, its rhythm gets under your skin. And after you leave, it draws you back. South America beckons. I never thought I would feel that way about it, but I do.

Latin America is divided into two types of countries: Euro-American and Indo-American. In Euro-American countries the majority of the (non-Jewish) population emigrated from Europe (Spain, Portugal, France, Italy) to Latin America. This group includes Brazil, Argentina, Uruguay and Chile. Other countries, - in which the majority is of Native American descent or mixed Indian - are considered Indo-American. These countries include Peru, Bolivia, Panama and Guatemala.

Interestingly, the differences between Euro-America and Indo-America also affected the absorption of Jews in various countries. In general, in the “European” countries of Latin America, the Jews were culturally and socially well absorbed, and thus the level of assimilation and intermarriage is on the increase. On the other hand, in countries where most of the population has an Indian culture and appearance, the Jews maintained more of their culture and even marriage within the community has remained high.

Like I said, interesting.

Bienvenido! Enjoy the tour!

Menahem

I have been blessed with a fortunate life. My numerous previous careers have often required that I travel to many places. I have never been one of those frequent travellers who complain about having to board a plane to somewhere or other. I’ve always loved being a road warrior. I am enchanted by foreign cultures and my exposure to them has, I be-lieve, made me a more accepting, open and understanding person.

Here’s a story to illustrate the point.

I was once required by my work to travel for one week a month to Pune, India. Unlike Mumbai or New Delhi, Pune is a relatively small city in In-dia (population: about 5 million) and is also comparatively upscale. For example, I was as seldom ac-costed in Pune by the poverty strick-en as I was frequently set upon in Mumbai.

On the second morning of the first of my many trips I was woken by a whole conglomeration of sounds that I couldn’t quite make out as I slowly progressed from jetlagged sleep into consciousness. I started making out the sounds of drums (that one was simple), and then something that seemed like cymbals (a little more complicated), tambourines (took a while), flutes, trumpets, whistles of sorts, and a cacophony of other instruments that I was unable to fathom.

I slowly made my way to the window and pulled aside the curtain. As the sunlight streamed in, I looked into the hotel’s front garden and there I saw an elephant. Elephants are not an uncommon sight in India; however this one was lavishly and opulently decorated in a garish multiplicity of colours. The elephant stood there rather meekly in the garden, while masses of people frol-icked and danced about it all the while tossing some pink powder all over it - and over themselves as well. My initial thought was that this is very strange. Then I thought it resembles how I imagined the worship of the Golden Calf in the Bible. Wow! This is paganism in practice! My next thought was well, aren’t I being a little judgmental? After all, what makes my form of worship for me any more valid than theirs is for them?

That thought set in motion for me a process that opened my mind to trying to understand new experiences and different cultures. While until now I had loved to see new things and travel to far-flung place, I realized that had always related to those in an associative manner. I had always compared what I was seeing to what I already knew, rather than trying to understand the experience for what it is.

Nowadays, it’s a lesson that I try hard to impart to those who travel with me. My orientation lecture upon arrival to any destination usually begins with “I hope you left your preconceptions behind before boarding the plane…”

Namaste! Enjoy the tour!

Menahem

The first time I saw the Himalayan Mountains in Nepal, I wept. I had  never before (and haven’t since) seen anything so spectacular. It literally caused me to lose my breath. The magnificence of it all, the lofty expanses, the jagged snow-capped peaks and the absolute majesty of Mount Everest, are all scenes which I hope will remain etched in my mind’s eye until I close my eyes for the last time.

Fortunately for me, I saw the Himalayas after I had witnessed the Canadian Rockies. My first time in the Rockies was equally awe-striking. There is something so special in experiencing the Almighty’s natural beauty, that there is no wonder that our sages required of us to make a blessing when we see such outstanding examples of creation’s splendor.

I have returned to the Rockies numerous times (more than I have to the Himalayas) and one of the reasons that I love coming back here is for the changes that I see every time. The colors change, the experiences change, and of course the people with whom I travel change. Each tour brings a new set of questions, and those challenge me to become a better guide.

First of all, there is something quite unusual about the Canadian West. The people of Calgary would be completely comfortable in Texas. Their mannerisms are similar, their “out west” state of mind is also similar. Western Canadians in general are very friendly. Very seldom will you walk past someone on the street and they won’t say “good morning/afternoon/evening.”

Some years back I took my group out on the eve of July 1 (Canada Day) when we spent that night in Jasper. As we walked to the town square to watch the fireworks, folks coming by us all said “good evening.” It was so pronounced that one of my guests came up to me and asked “do you know all these people?”

Another reason that makes me happy to return to this part of the world is to get back to one of my former home cities, Vancouver. I’ve had the good fortune to live in three amazingly beautiful cities: Cape Town, Vancouver and Jerusalem, even though it’s 35 years since I left Vancouver and returned to Israel.

The final reason I love coming back to this part of the world is to continue my exploration of the native tribes of the area. A tour to the Canadian Rockies is not only about nature. There is a plethora of culture hidden behind the scenes, and I try to bring those out from the places in which they lie concealed. So while we are surrounded by spectacular nature, we are also surrounded by fascinating culture and history, which I hope to share with you as we travel from place to place along our tour route.

Welcome to the Far West! Enjoy the tour & keep the questions

coming.

Menahem

Let me begin by being completely candid with you. I have mixed feelings about South Africa. I came to this country as a child and lived here from the age of 4 through 17. Those were the bad old days of apartheid, the racial discriminatory policy of the South African Nationalist Government that ruled South Africa from 1948 till 1994. It’s quite difficult to explain how successful the brainwashing of the Nationalist government actually was. On the one hand, I grew up in a family in which we didn’t know to distinguish between various skin colors, which was ‘good’ and which was ‘bad’. On the other hand, on the South Africa’s streets there most definitely was separation; on buses, in public parks and on seating benches, at public services, at entrances to official buildings, or at the train station. I could roam free at all hours of the day and night, whereas for a dark-skinned fellow of my age it was completely different. He had to go around all the time with his ‘pass’ book pocket. After 10 p.m. he wasn’t allowed out on the street due to curfew. And of course, I never knew him. We lived here and ‘they’ lived there. So when it came time for me to return to Israel at the age of 17, I was more than happy to say goodbye to the country in which I felt so not at home for the past 14 years. Yes, I had a good life there, a very good life. I studied at excellent Jewish day schools. I matriculated well. We had black domestic servants at home. And when my brother and I used to see the police arriving at the far end of the street, we’d run to the domestic servants at our end to warn them to get indoors before the police reached our end of the street. And so I bear much anger toward the system that taught me things that no child should ever be taught—to hate people because of the color of their skin.

Now the other side of the coin.

South Africa is without doubt an astoundingly beautiful country. Spectacularly so! Of all the countries I have guided, I have not found a single other one that has so much splendour. From a tourism point of view, there isn’t any other country that offers what South Africa does. Where else in the winter, can you go skiing in the morning, then drive a few hours and go to the beach?

Nature is at its supreme best in South Africa. Endless natural flora. All types, in all the colors of the rainbow and more. As a matter of fact there are more types of flowers in South Africa than in any other country on earth. And so many tribes with so many different histories and so many different cultures.

And the animals! Oh, the animals! South Africans have always known how to live with the animals. How to give them their due, how to watch them, learn from them and about them. How to enjoy nature at its best. The elephant herds in Chobe, Botswana are the largest on earth. The park has over 65,000 of them. It’s a sight you’ll never forget. It will remain engraved in your mind’s eye forever. Cape Town - no wonder it’s been on the list of the top 5 most beautiful cities in the world for so many years. Victoria Falls are literally breathtaking. Literally. What do the kids say? “No Way!” But, yes, there is.

This tour has more מה רבו moments than any other. Guaranteed. Possibly even more than all the other tours combined.

The problem with Africa is that it gets under your skin and it doesn’t let go. When you’re gone, it beckons. It invites you to return... over and over. And every time you do, you fall in love all over again.

An impossible and beautiful country.

Sawubona! Enjoy the tour!

Menahem

The part that I love about Thailand most derives from the fact that I have children and grandchildren who are temporarily resident here, and I love visiting with them. I have been blessed with numerous opportunities to do so, and thus I have grown to like coming here more and more. Thailand is already familiar to me. I have travelled it extensively, I am comfortable here, nothing seems strange, I never get lost (albeit, that can be a bad thing too sometimes) . Fa-miliarity brings comfort in its wake.

The part I don’t like is the many elderly lotharios who walk the streets of Thailand in search of young female company—an issue which has given rise to Thailand’s notorious sex trade. On the other hand, Thailand is very welcoming to seniors. Older folk who live on fixed income can stretch that income further here than in any western country. Rent is moderate. Food is cheap (except kosher food). Health care is first grade. The weather is reasonable. And Thailand offers what is called here a “retirement visa” to encourage seniors to come and live here.

Is Thailand a third world country? No. Er, well, yes too. Some parts are and some parts aren’t. Is Thailand an eastern country? Yes, most definitely. Buddhism is followed (the word ’practiced’ cannot really be applied to Buddhism) here by 95% of the population. That, combined with Confucian ideas that permeate the entire Far East, make Thailand a very tolerant society. 

Is Thailand a modern country. Yes. Er, well, no too. I guess it depends where you are. Bangkok, for example, is very modern. Supermodern, in fact. Tall skyscrapers, steel and glass apartment buildings, excellent roadways and train systems. Huge, cutting-edge shopping malls galore. But step behind the scenes a little and you’ll discover a more long-established lifestyle, traditional foods and eating methods, modest homes and simplicity.

Southern Thailand offers some of the best seaside spots in the world. Amazing luxurious hotels and resorts as far as the eye can see, and beyond. White beaches, clear, azure seas, snorkelling in crystal clear waters. It’s an escapists paradise. Tropical fruit in abundant—endless—supply all year round. The central plains offer history and culture, and the north brings you jungles, rivers, elephants and discovery.

Jewishly, Thailand is surprisingly easy to live in. Chabad runs an empire here. There are 3 Chabad houses in Bangkok, and one each in Phuket, Koh Samui, Chiang Mai and Pai. Kosher food is in limited supply, but far more today than was the case a short few years ago. Bangkok has two kosher restau-rants. There’s a kosher hotel in Pattaya. The Beit Elisheva synagogue in undergoing a complete renovation (your contribution will be most welcome). It’s definitely not hard to be an observant Jew in Thailand.

So there you have it. This east-west-modern-traditional-old-new land is a definite bucket list tick off. Oh, and it has a king. Rama X is his title. Maha Vajiralongkorn is his name. But he lives in Germany. (?!)

Sawadee krab! Enjoy the tour!

Menahem

So, here we are in the Far East again. For some of you it might be the first time, and for others it may be a return to the area to visit a different country, to be exposed to an unusual culture, to learn about a little-known history and to experience an alternate set of ideas.

What can I tell you about Vietnam & Cambodia that you don’t already know? Let’s start with Vietnam. When I first came here, my state of mind was very much prejudiced by “the war.” Now, while my own life’s experiences have been very much influenced by the years I spent in the military and by my combat experiences, Vietnam was for me the “other war” that was being fought at more or less the same time. I remember visiting the Vietnam Veterans Memorial in Washington DC for the first time and being hugged warmly by the veterans who had fought there as a comrade-in-arms from another battlefield. But whereas I was welcomed home as a hero, they weren’t. So that all informed my expectations when I first came to Vietnam. But I met a country that had left it all behind. Yes, there are memorials here and there, but the Vietnamese people have left “the war” behind. It does not inform their day-to-day in any way whatsoever.

What I did find was incredible hospitality; people who wanted to sit and talk, to get to know the foreigner visiting their country, to make me feel welcome.

After that I was enthralled by the architecture – I confess that Ha-noi really does it for me; I love the French colonial design that they have, perhaps miraculously, succeeded in maintaining, or preserving. I cannot figure out yet why they sit on such low stools when they eat or drink their fabulous coffee, but they have always been willing to pull up one more to welcome me to their coffee club.

Hue and Hoi An in the center of the country were both ancient capital cities and significant parts of that ancient construction can still be seen. We’ll also pass through Da Nang, Vietnam’s third largest city and the location of “China Beach” the largest US Military Depot during the war years,

Ho Chi Minh City - a.k.a. Saigon - reminds me more of many other super-cities here in the East – it has the bustle of Bangkok with less skyscrapers, but it seems determined to catch up. The Saigonese exemplify Vietnam’s rush to advance and catch up to the rest of the world.

And then, there’s Siem Reap in Cambodia as a last stop. The folks here are super smiley, welcoming, comfortably English speaking, much calmer than the Saigon folks, and very, very hospitable.

I am not a lover of visiting more than one country per trip. As a tour designer and guide I believe that cultures and histories should not be mixed because of the confusion that results when guests review there tour afterwards. Will anyone remember which stream of Buddhism is followed in which country? Or which ethnicities are more prevalent in which country?

However, as with all “rules” there is an exception. Both Vietnam and Cambodia share tragic recent histories, and in both cases, the masses were innocent victims of politicians who were more concerned about their own personal power than about the welfare of their citizens. Thus, in my opinion, the combination of these two countries on this tour will expose you to amazing people, nature and culture; fascinating history – both modern and ancient – including what I consider to be an incredible lacuna in the greater Buddhist experience, but I’ll leave it to you to see if you can discover what I mean.

So welcome again to the Far East, our latest addition to India, Nepal, China & Japan.

Xin Chao & Soum Swakumm!

Menahem

Delighted to have you with us (again)!

I think that of all the trips that we have done together, this is the one I have looked forward to most. Do I love India & Nepal? Absolutely! After all, those are the countries I have visited more than any other. Am I still fascinated by the mystery of China after so many visits? More than ever! Would I like to return to Costa Rica and Panama? Definitely! But of all the places to which I have led groups, none has captured my affection as has Japan. I fell in love with Japan on my very first trip here. More than any other place I have visited, Japan spoke to some very deep recess in me. For two years after my first visit, I studied only Japan. I read only Japan. I learned only Japan. And like many others, I concluded that Japan cannot be understood in a single visit. There are layers upon layers here. And it’s not easy to understand. Japan is a very complicated society. There are so many contrasts. The ancient and the modern combine in ways

that don’t exist in other lands. There’s a placidity about Japan, a calm, a solace even. Yet, to the outsiders it appears a harsh society; uncompromising in its demands for compliance. And the issue of Japanese cruelty in World War II will inevitably arise (as if any of the other axis armies were so kind). Visitors often find the Japanese unfriendly, cold. Yet, once you know them (and yes, that does take a long time) they are warm and hospitable to an extreme. I was once asked by someone who was a long-time gaijin in Japan, how would I describe Japan in a single word. I thought a while, and then said: harmonious. Her jaw dropped. She said I was the first foreigner she had met who “got it.” That was very flattering to me, and it also opened up a whole new vista for my comprehension of Japan as a society. That is my message to you on this trip. Don’t compare Japan to any other place we (you) have ever been. If you do you will come away frustrated. Rather, seek out the harmony in everything that puzzles you as we go along. If you succeed in doing that, it will open a window for you to begin to understand this beautiful, exquisite, charming, complex and intricate land. You will understand why the trains are so punctual, and why the people are in fact so polite (except during rush hour when pandemonium rules). You will comprehend why they giggle in apparently uncomfortable situations, and why everything is so clean. 

And you’ll even understand the toilets.

Yokoso!

Menahem

Myanmar appears to be locked in some type of time warp. The democratic reforms of 2010 ushered in the potential for a bright future. But after fifty years in economic doldrums, the skyscrapers being built in Yangon are still set off by the dilapidated low-rise towns and villages made of mud bricks. Paddy fields are plowed by bulls and water buffalo, and horse carts far outnumber motorized vehicles. So what’s the fascination with Myanmar – or Burma, as most of us still

call it?

The answer to that questions most probably lies in the smiling people and the multitude of golden stupas, shaven-headed monks in their stand-out saffron robes and wrinkled elderly women puffing happily on their outsized cheroots. The spice smells of the street, an unfamiliar yet curious mixture that beckons the palate – yes, even the kosher one. The palaces built entirely of teak and the sarongs worn by both women and men. All these and more combine to create an interest in this old-new, colonial-free, unusual and mostly undeveloped land.

Suvannabhumi – Land of Gold – as Myanmar was called in ancient Indian chronicles, is a Buddhist nation. It’s prominently evident not only the belief system of its population, but even in the predominant architectural style of its surroundings. However, colonial masters also left their influences here, whether they were Indian, Portuguese or British – so that there remains a mishmash of traditions and interests, styles and ethnic impacts. That is given expression in the fact that there are 67 indigenous racial/ethnic groups in Myanmar, who speak as many as 242 various dialects. That’s quite a lot for a country with just over 60 million people. Or is it? Well, considering that the Bamar people constitute almost 70 percent of the entire population, the smaller people-groups are indeed those where Myanmar’s multiethnic personality can be truly explored.

Another of Myanmar’s curiosities is the status of women in this country. Traditionally, Buddhism places women at a lower status in society. Yet here, women have historically enjoyed high levels of social power, from the seat of Queen to village heads, their rights today are equal to those of men, including Myanmar’s very simple divorce laws.

And oh! – the many, many, many images of Buddha, often with equally as many different faces and expressions – almost as

many as the intricacies in the carvings that lavishly decorate the multitude of temples.

There’s much “work” ahead of us to understand, learn, experience, discover, explore. Enjoy!

Menahem

The immediate image conjured up in the mind when the word Peru is mentioned, is the Inca citadel of Machu Picchu. Indeed, it is the highlight of any and every tour to this country. But Peru is also home to the world’s deepest natural canyon, and the highest navigable lake. It’s a true melting pot of indigenous and foreign peoples; mestizos, Africans, Chinese and Japanese – and their cultural influences are felt everywhere.

While the Pacific Ocean laps its coast line, Peru shares borders with Ecuador and Colombia to the north, Brazil and Bolivia to the east, and Chile to the south. It’s the third largest country in South America – half a million square miles, which contain soaring mountains, vast canyons, coastal desert and lush jungle, with a multitude of microclimates spread in between. Peru’s population has topped 27 million, 8 million of which call Lima, the capital, home.

While the Inca civilization, for which Peru is best known, is a relatively recent phenomenon (as compared to us, they’re barely teenagers) Peru’s earliest inhabitants are assumed to have crossed the Bearing Straights to North America during the last Ice Age. Another theory suggests that raft expeditions, similar to that of Thor Heyerdahl, may have enabled immigration across the Pacific too.

However, Peru’s formative civilization dates back to around 2700 BCE, around the same time that China, Egypt and Mesopotamia were also developing. Jewish immigration to Peru can be traced back to the 16th century, although from the beginning of European exploration of the Americas, with Christopher Columbus in 1492, there have been Jews in the "New World." Columbus welcomed New Christians onto his boats to serve as translators for when he would arrive in what he thought would be the East Indies.

When the Spanish set out to conquer South America and settle there, they brought many of Jewish descent with them. The open land and economic opportunities attracted other Conversos who were denied many economic opportunities in Spain and were under strict watch from the Inquisition. While these quotas limited the Spanish Jews in the New World, the Portuguese were not as strict. Portuguese New Christians started moving into Spanish controlled territories, including Peru. In the 1580s, the Inquisition watched all Portuguese New Christians in South America very closely to look for signs of secret Jews. When suspected of secretly practicing Judaism, the Inquisition would take them and torture them until they forced a confession. No matter what the outcome was, the person would be killed, usually burned at the stake.

This Jew hunting went on until the end of the 1700s. Not everyone was caught. There are Catholic families today who are descendants of New Christians who were secret Jews. There are no practicing Jews today in Peru who are descendants from the original settlers. One unique aspect of Peru's Jewish community is the number of indigenous Peruvians who have recently started practicing Judaism. They are descendants of people who were converted to Catholicism when the Spanish conquered Peru. Many believe that in order to observe the

laws of the Bible you must practice Judaism. This community started out as five hundred people but has grown somewhat since.

We will try encompass all these features and more while on this brief visit to this Andean nation. It promises to be naturally spectacular and culturally fascinating.

Welcome!

Menahem

When I completed the tour guides’ course 17 years ago, I was asked to which countries I felt comfortable to take tour groups. I responded: “Southern Africa, India and the Pacific Northwest of the USA/Canada” because I had spent a significant amount of time in all those regions and knew them well. The course or-ganizers looked at me and said: “What about Japan?”

I was taken aback at first be-cause Japan had never ever been on my radar. But it sounded like a challenge and I never shy away from those, so I said: “OK. Let’s go for it.” And off I went as an apprentice guide to learn about Japan. I immediately fell in love with the country and it has re-mained my most favored and most toured destination.

Like Japan, the United Arab Emirates was never on my radar. As a matter of fact, my radar wasn’t even aware that such a place was possible ever to visit. And then, one Wednesday I’m in the supermarket doing our weekly shopping, and my phone rings. This is how the call went. I kid you not.

“Do you have a foreign passport?”

“Yes.”

“Can you go to Dubai next week?”

“In principle, yes. But I need to talk to Michele first.”

“OK, if Michele says yes, go get a COVID test, book a flight and hotel and fly out on Sunday.”

Michelle said yes, and so, four days later I land in Dubai. I admit I was a little apprehensive because I had never visited an Arab country. Although I passed through the airport in Amman many times on my way east, but I never felt comfortable there, and here I am marching to the border checkpoint in a huge and beautiful airport in an Arab country. Additionally, my Canadian passport explicitly states, place of birth Tel Aviv, Israel. Will I have a problem? What is the state of COVID-19 in Dubai? How will I know to get around the place? This is the first time I'm coming to a country of which I know ... nothing.

Turns out my fears were in vain. Passport control barely looked at me, the hotel driver who was waiting for me was very happy to meet an Israeli so close after the declaration of normalization of relations, my meetings with local agents were extremely friendly, and I walked around with a kippa on my head without feeling out of place. And of course, all this is in addition to the destination itself which is simply ... there are no words to describe it. The initial shock from Dubai was far beyond my initial shock in Shanghai or Manhattan or Hong Kong.

But for me the story here is far beyond the extremely impressive skyscrapers. I had to make a serious switch in my head. I grew up on Arabs being my enemy. That's how I got used to thinking. I also live in a town that’s surrounded by Arab villages, and despite my loose acquaintanceship with some of the residents of these villages, it ‘s always in terms of being both respectful and suspicious at the same time. From the village closest to us, which we always thought of as really friendly, and whose mukhtar and our rabbi had a close friendship, there were two attempted terror attacks (both pretty much failed, B”H) that came out of there. And now, here I am in an Arab country and here they are receiving me not only politely and kindly, but really happily! They long to meet Israelis, to visit Israel in general and the holy places for Muslims in particular. It's a friendly Islam ! And it took me a day or two to get used to this new situation.

I tell you, I fell in love with the place as much as I fell in love with Japan. And anyone who knows me, knows that for me, it means everything.

I wish you an experience similar to mine. Enjoy the UAE. It's fascinating.

Menahem